Archives for January 20, 2006

The Lob Wedge – Making your “Worst Enemy” your “Best Friend”

First, I want to say, I believe the lob wedge is one of your most important clubs in your bag. Besides your putter and your driver, this is probably the club you will use the most in a given round… if you know how to use it and use it correctly…

The perfect Lob Wedge: The perfect lob wedge (in my opinion) has the following characteristics:

  1. 58* of loft or more
  2. Forged club (the softest material in a wedge that helps create spin and a very soft feel at impact – allows for the ball to land soft on the green).
  3. Minimal bounce on the sole of the club (bounce is the angle on the sole of the club from the back to the club to the front). The more bounce, the harder it is to hit off of tight lies (thin grass lies, etc…) I recommend at most 8* of bounce – if possible and feel comfortable – hit 4 to 6* bounce.
  4. Relatively Wide sole on club – the wider the sole – the easier it is to “slide” across tight lies.
  5. Needs to have swing weight heavier than most clubs in bag besides the sand wedge (swing weight typically between D-4 and D-6) – most lob wedges are built this way as the added weight helps cut through many surfaces (high grass, sand, etc…) and helps create better “feel” around the greens.
  6. Steel shafted – (if possible). Again – the weight helps as described.
  7. Slightly rounded leading edge on the club – only slight, but this slight rounding also helps cut through different surfaces.

How to play the Lob Wedge:

For a full shot, (for many ranges from 30 to 60 yards, maybe slightly longer) – the ball is placed in the middle of the stance and swung with a good on plane single axis swing. (Like any other club in the bag – ball position center of stance). Some prefer to back the ball up a ball length or two… that is okay for a full shot.

For a short pitch or high lofted shot (not lob or flop shot yet.):

  1. The ball is placed slightly forward in the stance (forward of center). As higher you want the ball – the more forward you put in the stance.
  2. The weight (body’s weight distribution) is 50/50. You do not put more weight on the lead foot. 3. Stance is slightly open – about 10 to 20* at max. The shorter the shot, the more open the stance.
  3. The hands are slightly ahead of the ball at set up.
  4. Choke down slightly for more control and better feel.
  5. You swing the club with VERY soft hands. This means VERY light grip pressure on the club.
  6. You work on the fold/fold type swing. Meaning you fold your trail arm in the backswing and lead arm in the through swing. Nice and easy…
  7. You accelerate through the shot – your hands should finish at shoulder level or above. If you think the swing is too long for the shot – shorten the back swing, but still keep a solid and extended through swing.
  8. Swing toward the hole – as Moe said “Try to pull the flag out with the head of the club”. This was his analogy of making sure the club is swung down the line toward the hole.
  9. Make sure the weight is evenly distributed throughout the shot and the feet stay down throughout the shot.

For a flop shot (high lofted short shot): Follow the points above except the following:

  1. Ball position – as forward in stance as comfortable. Off lead heel or further forward is good.
  2. The weight distribution is on the back foot. Keep weight back throughout the shot.
  3. The club slides under the ball… Think of sliding under the ball rather than hitting down on the shot.

To be honest, after teaching 1,000s of students in the past, this is always a difficult shot to master – it takes time, but once you get the “feeling” it actually becomes pretty easy and a great “shot saver” in the round. Here are a few faults many students have difficulty with while they are trying to learn the flop shot:

  1. Weight transfer – you need to keep your weight back on the shot – exaggerate this as much as possible. It is almost impossible to get the club to slide under the ball if you are transferring your weight forward.
  2. SOFT HANDS – if you think you have lightened the grip pressure enough – do it some more. The softer the grip pressure the easier it is to fold/fold in the shot which brings consistency and great feel with this shot.
  3. Acceleration – shorten the backswing enough that you feel you need to be pretty aggressive in the through swing. A back swing that is too long creates deceleration in the throughswing which leads to fat and/or thin shots.
  4. Swing toward the hole – great area to practice on swinging toward the target. Chances are if you are coming across your full shots (cut/slice) you are also doing the same in your pitching/flop shots.

In a good high pitch/flop shot the ball should land relatively soft on the green with minimal roll. In fact, if you listen to the shot, you will hear a “thud” when it hits the green. A good shot comes in soft, has minimal roll… many pros call it landing like a “butterfly with sore feet”.

Hopefully this helps those who are looking to help their short game – especially that all needed lob shot around the green. For more detailed information, please see our Video #4 of our 7 principles.

Be watching for more upcoming Winter Practice Tips in upcoming Etips.

The next is scheduled for Feb. 1st and is going to discuss the vertical drop in the full swing.

Good Luck.

Remember – ALWAYS PRACTICE WITH A PURPOSE

Short Game Winter Practice

As everyone knows who has been at one of our schools, read past instructional material by us, has our instructional material (TGOV or 7 principles) or just spends a little time at any of our academies – we continually stress building the ENTIRE game rather than just parts of the game. As we always say, you will only be as good as the weakest part of your game… With this said, we many times fall into the trap of focusing only on our long game and letting our short game slip a little – or worse, putting very little practice into our short game.

Fact – 43% of scoring occurs on the putting green (with the putter) for an average golfer (20 handicap golfer). As you handicap goes up, this percentage increases… for a scratch golfer – about 40% of scoring occurs with the putter.

And – as this is the time of year we get minimal outdoor practice, let’s talk about setting up a practice station and method to improve our putting (can be done at home , in the office, on the road… in the winter or any time of the year).

First, we recommend you obtain the following “tools” for your putting station. Putting mat (or smooth carpet in your house), yardstick, sharpie marker, 2 rubber bands, golf balls, 2 x 4 (about 2 feet long), DVD, and a magazine.

Next, draw a straight line on your putting mat from the hole back to the end of the mat (or at least 6 to 8 feet) – (would definitely recommend getting a mat for this, not sure too many spouses would be happy putting a line on the house’s carpet..)

Next, place 2 rubber bands on your putter face about 1 to 2 inches apart. You can start wide (2 inches) and then work down.

The center point between the 2 rubber bands should be the sweet spot of the putter. When you are placing the rubber bands on the putter – do not make them smooth – in other words – if you hit the rubber band in your stroke, you want the ball to go off line. When practicing with the rubber bands on the putter it will show you if you are making contact with the sweet spot of your putter (making sure you don’t heel or toe your putter which leads to VERY inconsistent putting, in particular, distance control).

Next, take a golf ball (or few golf balls) and draw a line around the ball with the sharpie. Make the line as circular around the ball as possible. You could use a range ball (with lines on it), but prefer you use the same type of golf balls you play with (to develop feel).

Now let’s talk about drills to work on your alignment, stance and stroke.

“DVD Drill” To determine proper ball position, place a DVD on your mat and place a golf ball in the middle of the DVD. When you look down on the DVD (will reflect) you should not see your left eye (for right hands – right eye for left-handers) – the ball will block the reflection of your lead eye. You will see your trail eye just behind the ball in the reflection. In other words, this is a great check to make sure the ball is under your eye line and slightly forward in your stance. This drill works for short, long and side saddle putting. You will stand a little more inside (further from the ball) with a belly style putter – but still want to get as close as possible.This drill also will help determine if your putter is too long – for many, if they can’t get the golf ball in a good position – could mean the putter (length) is too long.

“Magazine Drill” After you have determined the proper distance from the golf ball, lay a magazine down next to your toes. For most, an average size magazine will fit between the toes and putter (leaving enough room to stroke the putt). Ideally – find a magazine (size) that will fit exactly between your toes and heel of your putter when you set up over the ball. You can then use this check anytime you are practicing putting – to make sure you are the right distance from the ball – just lay down the magazine – put your toes against the magazine and heel on another side.

“2 x 4 Drill” Take the 2 x 4 and place parallel to the line in the mat with just enough room to stroke the putt with the toe of the putter as close to the board as you are comfortable. As you perform this drill, the putter should go back straight and then arc slightly inside (for longer putts) in the backswing. In the through swing the putter will return to square at impact, go straight through and then arc slightly inward (towards your toes) for longer putts. Checkpoint in this drill is the putter never touches the 2 x 4, but stays very close to it.

“Line Drill” Finally – the line drill. You can do either with the “lined ball” or unmarked ball. I recommend both. Place the ball on the line on putt.

When you putt check four things:

  1. You stay VERY still during the putt – minimal movement in the body.
  2. The ball rolls down the line to the hole. Does not go right or
  3. The putter head goes back (backswing) down the line (slightly inward arc for longer putts) and then returns to square at impact, rides the line in the through swing (arcs slightly in for longer putts).
  4. If you used the marked golf ball – should roll straight into the hole – should not “wobble” on the way

These drills work for all forms of putting – short, long, belly and side saddle. In fact, as you examine your putting and putting stroke in the offseason, it may be a great time to “experiment” with other forms. The roll of the golf ball, path of the putter, etc… doesn’t lie. With these drills and tools you can see what form of putting gives you the best roll and chance to improve your scoring in the upcoming year.

Good Luck

Be watching for more upcoming Winter Practice Tips in upcoming Etips.

Remember – ALWAYS PRACTICE WITH A PURPOSE

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