Archives for September 15, 2024

Top 5 Club Fittings Mistakes Found in Golfer’s Bags

By Tim Graves, PGA

As most of you know (by now..), your clubs must fit the swing you are working toward.  If they do not fit you, it is very difficult to make swing changes and / or those swing changes will be slowed dramatically.   I like to call it “taking the excuses out of the bag”.

But, before I start going through each club in the bag (future articles), I wanted to start with the “Top 5 Club Fitting Mistakes” you see in many golfers bags.

 1.  Driver

The first most common custom club fitting mistake with the driver is not enough loft for the driver for a golfer’s fit.  The optimal loft of a driver for a golfer will give that golfer maximum fly and maximum roll for their swing speed.

Examples:

Hit a 6 iron 150 to 160 yards:  Driver should have 10.5* loft

Hit a 6 iron 120 to 130 yards:  Driver should have 12* loft

2nd most common mistake with drivers is shafts that are too heavy for the golfer.  Golfers want more distance and forgiveness with their driver.  With the appropriate loft, a lighter shaft will help many golfers get more distance with their driver.

40 to 50 grams is considered a “Light weight” shaft and 50 to 55 grams is considered a “mid weight” shaft.  Many golfers have 60 gram or heavier shafts in their drivers and need lighter weight shafts (especially those with senior and regular flex) and wanting more distance with the tee ball.

2.  Fairway Woods

The most common mistake with fairway woods is golfers do not have enough loft (for maximum distance off the ground) with their longest fairway wood.

In other words, most golfers SHOULD NOT carry a 3 wood (unless they use this 3 wood primarily off a tee).

To hit a 3 wood (15 to 16* loft) appropriately (maximum fly and roll) you need to be able to hit you 6 iron at least 175 yards on the fly…

Most will hit a 5 wood (or 7 wood) further than their 3 wood off the ground.  They need the loft of the 5 wood (18 / 19*) for maximum fly and roll.

(FYI – even most professional golfers will hit a 17* / 18* fairway wood off the ground as their longest fairway wood… then why do so many average golfers hit a 15* fairway wood off the ground and get “poor” results..)

3.  Hybrids

The most common mistake is golfers DO NOT have their hybrids fit / customized for their individual lie angle.  Golfers MUST have the lie angle adjusted / fit for their size and swing.  For most, lie angles of their hybrids are too upright, and golfers “heel dig” their hybrids and either top, pull or hit poor shots with them.  This is why so many golfer can hit their hybrids “okay” out of the rough, but have difficulty hitting them off of fairways or “tight” lies.

Hybrids MUST be fit for the lie angle for an individual golfer.  If not, the hybrid is working AGAINST the golfer.

Very few golf equipment companies fit / adjust lie angles for an individual’s size (Callaway is one, that is why their customization process is rated so high).

4.  Irons

Honestly, there are many common mistakes when it comes to golfers irons (length, lie angle, flex, etc..) but for this article – will focus on one…

The most common mistake with irons is golfers do not have correct shafting in their irons.

Correct shafting in irons (and all clubs) allows for the correct height and flight of the golf ball for the golfer.  Having the correct / appropriate height gives the maximum and optimal distance for irons for that golfer.

And correct shafting “protects” golfers.  For a majority of golfers (over 40 years of age… younger for some) – they need a shaft that does not damage or protects the body.  Graphite shafting in irons protects the body.

Graphite shafting for golfers has the following characteristics:

  1.  Much easier on body – will protect elbows, shoulders, wrists, back, etc..
  2.  Will be more forgiving on golf shots (thin and heavy shots will go further, react better with graphite).
  3.  Are more consistent – especially over time.  Graphite is by far the most consistent material in shafts compared to steel.
  4.  Will allow for increased distance as graphite shafts in irons can be lighter and kick the ball up higher than steel.

5.  Wedges

The most common mistake with wedges in most golfer’s bags is wedges not being fit at all…

For most golfers, when talking about the Gap, Sand and / or Lob wedge, they think they can purchase these clubs “off the shelf” in their local club shop and they are good to go….  that can not be further from the truth.

Wedges must be fit to an individual for length, lie angle, shaft flex (and weight), grip size, lofts, etc..

Think about it… you are hitting a chip or pitch (1/2 shot or less) with your wedge and you “heel or toe dig” the wedge because it isn’t fit properly.  That club is going to twist in your hands… you will push, pull, chuck, or even shank the shot.. not because of poor technique, but because of an improperly fit wedge.

It always amazes me how many golfers I watch “chunk” chip / pitch shots (in my pro-ams) with improperly fit wedges for them and they get so upset…. without realizing they really have very little chance of hitting those short game shots well with improperly fit wedges…

Again – as I like to say… “You must take ALL excuses out of the bag”

If you have any questions about your fittings / individual fit, please feel free to email direct at timg@gravesgolf.com

If you would like a free individualized custom fit for you – please see:  CLICK HERE

Five On Course Instructional Tips

BY TIM GRAVES, PGA (Co-owner Graves Golf Academy)

These are things I see most “amateurs” have problems with during their round and things that can be “fixed” during practice.

1. Work On Controlling Trajectory –

This is a big one… One BIG difference between low handicap/professional golfers and average golfers is the ability to control trajectory. Whether hitting shots into the wind, or down wind, hitting shots to pins in the front of the green or back of green, all good golfers have the ability to control trajectory of their golf shots.

Example 1 – You are hitting a drive into the wind (a good wind) – if you can’t keep the driver flight (trajectory) down, it will cost you significant distance AND control. You will be hitting more club than you should into the green and probably from places you don’t want to be.

Example 2 – You are hitting to a pin in the front of the green (maybe behind a bunker) or just in the front of the green where you need

to fly onto green to hit it close. You MUST be able to hit the ball a little higher than normal to hold the green – if you hit normal trajectory (or lower) – it will skip to back or over green…

There are many examples, think of the last round you played (maybe there was some wind in that round) – would it have helped to be able to control your trajectory a little better… Most average golfers would definitely see better scores if they could.

Next time you are practicing on the range – rather than just working at hitting toward a target, etc.. work on different ball flights. Work on high shots, low shots and shots in between. Work on changing ball position in your stance (back to hit lower, forward to hit higher) and making sure your hands are leading “consistently” to change ball flight/height. Work on hitting lower “solid” shots that would work into the wind, work on higher shots that would work downwind, etc..

2. Take Enough Club

Think about the last round you played. Think about your approach shots into the greens. In other words, the shots into the greens that you had a chance to get to the hole (tee shots on par 3s, hopefully 2nd shots on par 4s, etc…).

How many times did you hit an approach shot to the green/pin and you got the ball to the hole (at least hole high)? How many times did you hit the ball short… and many times up to a club or two short?

When I play in pro-ams, if I had to estimate, over 75% of the time, the amateurs I am playing with do not get the ball to the hole. And many times, they are significantly short of getting there. They are either not hitting it “solid” or they are “dreaming” of how far they can hit particular clubs. You’d be very surprised how far good players hit their irons…. Most don’t hit it near as far as you are led to believe. In fact, for most professionals, their 150 yard club is an 8 or even 7 iron…

Next time you play – take one more club (or more) when you are hitting your shot into the pin (unless the pin is in the back of the green and over the green is “bad”…). If you hit it long, then you have “permission” to “club down” next time… If you don’t, keep taking one or two more clubs until you are consistently long… Example, you are 150 yards out and normally hit a 7 iron – hit a 6 iron or even 5 iron/hybrid.

You’ll be surprised how taking an extra club or two on each shot will DRAMATICALLY help your scoring – it will “allow” you to swing easier, which will in turn help you with consistency, solidness of hit, etc… Keep taking a “little more club” until you are hitting long consistently.

3. Hybrids ARE NOT Good Clubs For Low/Under Tree, etc.. Shots

Big mistake I see during pro-ams is when an amateur gets under a tree (or needs a very low/punch type shot) and he/she pulls out a hybrid (baffler, etc..) and tries to hit the shot.

Hybrids are designed as long iron replacements and are designed to get the ball up faster and easier than the comparable long iron. As stated – to get the ball up faster…. and if you are trying to keep the ball low (maybe under tree limbs, etc..), hitting a hybrid / baffler goes against the “make up” of the club.

Couple of options (other than using hybrids/bafflers for the low, under tree, punch shot):

1. Hit a 3, 4 or 5 fairway wood (good unless you are hitting out of mid to high grass).

2. Carry a long iron if you think you might have a few of these shots during a round… Example – you are playing a course with many trees and is tight off the tee (tree lined). Maybe carry a 3 hybrid, 4 iron and 5 hybrid, etc.. If you need a 4 hybrid during the round (and carrying a 4 iron instead), choke down on the 3 hybrid a little and hit it (or choke down on a 5 fairway wood). Then you have a 4 iron to punch out of the trees..

3. If there isn’t much grass under your trees, or much rough to go through, you can punch or even “top” a driver. I have seen many good players use this shot – they need to hit under a tree(s) and there is very little grass, they “top” a driver and it rolls and rolls and rolls… great shot that rolls a long way…

4. If all else fails, take the longest iron you have in the bag (maybe a 5 iron or 6 iron), choke down on it, put back in stance and hit a hard punch/long chip type shot. Putting in back of stance and not releasing the club will help keep low.

4. Get Back to the Fairway / Check Your Line To The Pin

This is a big mistake I see made often by amateurs… They hit the ball into the rough (mid to deep rough) and take the “wrong” route toward the pin.

Next time you hit the ball into the rough (off the tee, etc.), look a little more at the line you are about to take toward the pin. Now, assume the shot will come out 50% of the distance you think… or maybe 75% of the distance you want. If it does, where will it go. In the rough again…. It is MUCH better to have the ball a few yards (maybe 50 to 100) short of the green in the fairway rather than in the rough with a difficult shot again.

It is helpful to use the middle of the green or even the “wide side” of the green as your target next time you are in the rough. Professionals/good players call it “taking their punishment” for hitting it in the rough.

First – it is very hard to stop a ball when hitting from the rough – the grass between the ball and club face will minimize spin dramatically.

Second – it is very hard to control distance from the rough for the same reason – you will probably not hit the ball first… grass between club face and ball.

Third – many times you will need enough loft on the club to get the ball out of the grass that probably won’t be enough to get to the pin (green).

So – next time you hit your shot into the rough, consider “taking your punishment” and hitting toward the middle/wide part of the green. Hitting your next shot from the “short grass” /fairway short of the green or having to 2 putt from a distance (wide side of green) is MUCH better than having to hit a shot from the rough again…

5. Chip With The Correct Club

If you know me, you’d know I’d have to throw at LEAST one short game tip in here…

First – use the short game RULE OF THUMB:

Putt When You Can
Chip When You Can’t Putt
Pitch When You Have Too…

Always use that rule above… I don’t care if you are 30 feet off the green, if the grass is short enough to putt it (and you are comfortable) – putt it. An average putt is typically better than a good chip, etc..

Now when you chip – use the correct club.

That means, you want minimal fly (enough fly to get you just on the green) and then roll the rest of the way to the hole. The more you fly the ball, the more room for error in the shot.

I see way TOO MANY amateurs using the wrong club for the chip shot. For example, they have a chip that is 50 feet from the hole, 10 feet of rough of rough to fly and 40 feet of green. It would call for an eight iron, they take a wedge (sand or lob) and chip the ball. It hits the green and stops too fast… (too much spin, wrong club, etc..). It is MUCH EASIER to take a club that will fly the ball less and roll the ball more…. and MUCH more controllable.

Hopefully these 5 tips will help you on the course and you can start practicing these to help lower your scores/improve your game.

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