Golf stroke mechanics

How to Play in the Wind

We have had a few single axis golfers ask us our advice on how to play golf in the wind. What we recommend for handling different shots and how the wind might affect these shots.

Especially this time of year – it seems the wind seems to pick up (especially if you live in the “flat” states as we do…). You have a choice when playing in the wind – you can either “fight” the wind or not. Let’s talk about what we mean in some different situations.

Wind Into Your Face: (When you are hitting shots directly into the wind).

First – remember – when you hit a golf shot, the lift on the shot is produced by hitting down into the ball, the hitting down action produces spin which lifts the ball. When you are hitting into the wind – you DON’T want more spin. This will produce too much lift and a “ballooned” shot which will go up and come down short of your target.

  1. For every 1 mph of wind into your face add 1 yard. If 10 mph into your face, add 10 yards… Meaning a 10 mph wind into your face is what is called a 1 club wind.
  2. Swing EASY. It is recommended to take 1 more club than you need after taking the wind into effect. For example, if you hit a 7 iron 150 yards, have 10 mph into your face, you would play it as 160 yards (a 6 iron) than add 1 club (a 5 iron). Take 1 more club after factoring the wind so you will swing easy – this easy swing will produce less spin and thus the ball will not balloon up.
  3. Ball position – backup in your stance slightly. It is recommended to back the ball up in your stance slightly in order to help you hold the angles of impact and to help keep the loft off the club… meaning – make sure you hold angles of impact and don’t break down or “cast” the club. This casting increases loft of the club at impact and will also cause the ball to balloon.
  4. Hold impact angle (firm leading wrist) as long as possible. As stated in #3 – this angle will help keep the ball down and not balloon into the wind.

Downwind (Hitting Shots with the Wind):

  1. As with the wind into your face – factor wind the same way (except this will add distance to your shots). For every 1 mph of wind downwind – take 1 yard off your shot. Meaning, if you have 10 mph of wind downwind – take one less club than normal. If you typically hit a 7 iron 150 yards and have 10 mph wind downwind – hit a 8 iron (or very easy 7 iron.).
  2. Ball position is the same as normal shots (with no wind).
  3. When hitting downwind, the wind will take some of the spins off the shot. Meaning, if you typically hit shots that spin or hold greens, downwind shots will not hold as well (less spin). Play shots accordingly – meaning these shots will bounce further when they hit the green and roll out a little more.
  4. Severely Downwind Shots… If you have a lot of wind downwind – say 30 to 40 mph downwind – this wind tends to “knock the shots out of the air”. Or in other words, push the ball down to the ground. The reason for this is that amount of wind takes most of the spin off the shot and pushes the ball down. To calculate (a lot of experience) – if 40 mph downwind, you may only take 20 to 30 yards off the shot rather than 40 yards as that much wind will reduce flight of the ball.

Other Points with Downwind Shots –

There is a greater affect the longer the ball is in the air. Meaning – a 6 iron will be affected by the wind a lot more than a wedge. Both will go further than normal – the 6 iron a longer as it is in the air longer…

Crosswind (Hitting shots with wind right to left or left to right):

  1. We typically recommend to “ride the wind”. Meaning, for example, if the wind is blowing right to left and you are right handed, play the shot right of the hole and let the wind blow back to the target. This riding the wind will typically allow you to play the “normal” yardage shot (for example – if you hit a 7 iron from 150 yards, a crosswind 7 iron will still be 150 yards) unless the wind is very severe. If you choose to play into the wind – meaning if right to left wind and you play shot left to right, the shot will react more like an into the wind shot (as described above).
  2. When playing a cross wind shot line up accordingly. For example – if a right to left wind – line up slightly to the right and hit the ball as straight as possible – and let the wind do the “work” for you. Try not to push or pull the shot into the wind… typically causes side spin on the shot which is hard to control in normal situations, not to mention windy conditions.

Other Points to Consider When Playing Wind Shots:

  1. Wind DOES affect putts. There is wind close to the ground also. Play the wind accordingly when putting. Into the wind – hit a little harder, etc.
  2. You might consider playing a slightly harder ball when playing in windy conditions… a harder ball will spin less and be affected less by the wind.
  3. Play more fairway woods or hybrids when possible (especially when into the wind). These clubs produce less spin which will be affected less by the wind.
  4. Always remember to swing EASIER when in windy conditions – for many it is “instinctive” to swing harder – swinging easier produces less spin and thus the shots will be affected by the windless.

Good Luck!!

PLEASE don’t hesitate to call or email us anytime!!

Remember – ALWAYS PRACTICE WITH A PURPOSE

How to Hit Fairway Woods and Hybrids

We have recently received quite a few requests to cover the fundamentals of hitting fairway woods and the recently popular long iron replacement clubs – the hybrid (aka the utility club, baffler, heavenwood, etc…)

We are also sure you have seen the increased popularity in these clubs (in particular the hybrids) by all players (both amateur and professional).

Reasons for the increased popularity include:

  1. The ease of hitting these clubs compared to mid and long irons. The fairway woods and hybrids are built with a low center of gravity, weight in the front and base of the club, and a beveled sole with rounded edges, all making it much easier to get the ball off the ground with medium to minimal club head speed.
  2. The ease of hitting these clubs high. As golf courses get longer and longer and greens get harder and harder, golfers are needing longer clubs in their bags that they can hit high and land soft on these hard greens… 2, 3, 4… irons with not do this. These clubs are built to come in relatively low and “hot” (minimal spin). The hybrids are built to create much more height on the golf shot with a soft landing on the green.

I remember a few years ago watching an old “Wonderful World of Golf” Show featuring Jack Nicklaus and Arnold Palmer. They were standing on the 17th hole (don’t remember the course) – a 200+ yard par 3. Jack pulled out a 3 iron and hit it just overhead high – the ball landed on the green, one hopped and stopped about 5 feet from the hole – a GREAT golf shot… but sorry to say Jack – that shot doesn’t work anymore. If he were to hit that shot on today’s greens (even the average municipal golf course’s greens) it would have on hopped over the back and ended up in the river… this is why Jack now also carries an addition fairway wood and hybrids… because, of course, the change in his swing – little slower now, not as easy to hit long irons…, but more importantly, because of the change in the golf course – much harder and faster and the need to hit those higher/softer shots.

As you go through this practice tip – think about the golf you play, the type of shots you need – How many times do you have 170++ yards into those par 3s or 2nd shots into the par 4s, etc.. that you need to hit the green that has a hard time holding even wedge shots??

How many times do you have to hit shots into tight pin positions from over 150 yards??

How many times do you set up over a long/mid iron thinking the percentage is pretty low to hit it solid and at the target??

A lot of these issues can be solved using hybrids and fairway woods and of course knowing how to properly play these clubs.

Good Luck! Remember – ALWAYS PRACTICE WITH A PURPOSE

The Grip cont.

This is a busy time of year for us and great things are happening. Our Orlando Academy is booming, and with construction of our building underway, I can only imagine the great things to come in the following months and year.

After teaching in Orlando for the past three months, once again we see the majority of the problems starting with how you, our students, hold and hinge the club. In other words, the way you hold the club is inhibiting the way your hands move. This grip problem causes arm movement problems and the entire swing is affected by poor hand placement. Since your hands and arms produce a majority of the speed in the golf swing (up to 90%), you can only imagine how much the grip is affecting your ability to produce speed. I have said this before, you can not spend too much effort understanding the grip. And you can’t spend too much time learning how to hold the club and move your hands and arms. With our expanding 2005 schedule and our new academy, I can’t imagine a more important addition to the Graves Golf Academy product line than the upcoming Training Grip / Club product. It has been a long time coming and FINALLY, we will have a product that will teach the foundation of Moe Norman’s golf swing….the grip/hold on the club.

So, with great enthusiasm for our newest product and as I continue to emphasize the importance of the grip, arm position and arm movement, I want to discuss some common grip issues, problems and the things that the Graves Golf Academy, Transitional Training Grip will address, help and solve.

The Grip: Most Common Problems and their effects

Moe Norman overlapped his trail pinkie over his lead hand index finger for the majority of his career until 1994. If you take a deep look at Moe’s hands, you find that the club did not sit directly across the lifeline of his trail hand. It couldn’t. If it did, there would be nowhere to place the lead thumb. The fact is that Moe’s grip was perfect in the sense that the way he held the club aligned the club correctly with the arms. His lead arm aligned with the club shaft forming the “Rod” and the trail arm aligned forming the single axis. This arm and club shaft alignment are significant. It indicates that the hands and arms are together in this piece of the golf swing puzzle. This means that if you hold the club incorrectly, your arms will also be incorrect.

One of the beauties of Moe’s golf swing was the way he moved the club shaft. The way he hinged his hands and the club moved on plane with tremendous hand speed.

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Cause: Holding the club too far in the Palm of the Trail Hand

Effect: Loss of Speed and Correct Angles

By holding the cub too far into the trail hand palm, you inhibit hand action. You limit the RANGE OF MOTION of the hand and it’s ability to move the club fully. In effect, you minimize your ability to move the club shaft. This means that you have reduced the ability to produce speed. The reason each club has a long shaft is to help your project the club head with hand movement. By holding the club in a limiting position, you aren’t using the tool (golf club) in a full capacity. And, I’m not talking about a little speed

here, I’m talking about major speed issues. Just think about it, If the trail hand produces 75% of the speed in the golf swing, and you inhibit the movement of the hand and arms which move the shaft, the snowballing effect is significant.

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Cause: Grip On The Club is Too Big

Effect #1: Holding the club in the Palm of the Lead Hand

Effect #2: Hands (set up) too high at address (above ideal single axis set up)

Effect #3: Inability to feel proper pressure points

Often we see students holding the club in the palm of the Lead hand especially when the grips on our student’s clubs are too big. When the grips are too big, it becomes difficult to hold the club far enough down in the lead hand in the fingers. Subsequently, a grip that is too big will also make it difficult to hold the club into the correct position of the trail hand. The club should be held in the fingers of the lead hand where the fingers hold the club under the heel pad of the hand not the THUMB pad. Holding the club under the thumb pad creates a weak and un-hingable (new GGA word) position where the lead hand can not hinge correctly and produce the necessary leverage angle. This position also places large amounts of stress on the lead wrist. Many students complain about pain and stress on the lead wrist joint. **************

Cause: Grip on Club Too Small

Effect #1: Poor Grip and Arm Position Below Single Axis

Effect #2: Inability to feel pressure points

Effect #3: Poor Clubface position and hand rotations

Grip size is an important issue since each of us had different hand sizes. Let’s review what is important about the grip to see why a grip that is too small can cause problems. First, it is important that the club aligns with the lead arm (Rod) and trail arm (Claw) where you hold the club in the fingers of the lead hand and in the proper rotation and position of the trail hand. With the arm and hand positions correct, it is important to address correctly and hinge the hands correctly. A grip that is too small can keep you form pure single axis. Second, it is important that you can feel the pressure points in both the lead hand last three fingers and the trail hand trigger point. These pressure points are important and if your grip is too small, you will have a hard time feeling these places. Without the correct pressure points, it can become difficult to hinge the hands and “feel” the club. If you can’t feel the club, you can not move the arms correctly. The correct hinging of the hands combined with the movement of the arms is what produces speed and keeps the club in the correct plane. Last – a grip that is too small will have a tendency to slip/twist in the hands, causing club head to twist into incorrect positions at impact.

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Cause: Grip too Weak

Effect #1: Club face is open leaving shots weak and right of target (right handed player)

Effect #2: Loss of Leverage and speed

Effect #3: Many swing problems to compensate

Another common problem is a grip that is too weak which means that the lead arm is not aligned with the club correctly in the Rod position. This causes huge problems when it comes to correct club movement. Usually, the hands are unable to hinge which causes an enormous loss of speed. And because of the incorrect hinge and leverage, you lose the correct angles of the club into the impact position causing fat shots or shots that are swept because the club is coming in too shallow. But most of all, a weak lead hand leads to many swing compensations such as head movement, poor arm movement and unnecessary lateral motion. There are many others but my point is that a weak lead hand means trouble.

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Cause: Grip too Strong

Effect #1: Hooks

Effect #2: Rotation of body to compensate for hand position

Effect #3: Stress on back

Effect #4: Other Swing problems to compensate

Having a Strong lead hand means that the hands are rotated too far away from the target. Although you can produce speed from this position because you can leverage the club, it is difficult to release the club when your hands are too strong. This causes many swing problems such as hooking the ball, shoulder problems, rotation of the torso to make up for the inability to release the club and the weight staying back on the trail foot because of too much body rotation. You can also find stress being put on your back because of your inability to release the club. The Worst of All the Grip Problems: Lead Hand Weak, Trail Hand Strong On a final note about the grip, what I find might be the most troublesome is to have a lead hand that is too weak and a trail hand that is too strong. This combination of faults is rapidly becoming more popular as

we see students exaggerate unfortunate PALM idea. The fact is that Moe had his hands in the correct placement to move the club in an ideal single plane movement. This single plane / single axis included correct hand hinging which produced correct angles into impact and club speed. The lead hand and trail hand must work together as the lead hand hinges and trail hand cocks they are UNIFIED. This unification moves the club and club had correctly where you can move the club with minimal effort and maximum speed. This ideal mechanical advantage of the hands allows the body to stabilize and the arms to move correctly creating a simple golf swing that Moe called, “The Feeling of Greatness”. Good luck working on your grip – remember – you must START with your connection to the club – your grip… get it right – swing is made easy.. grip not right – continuous struggle with compensations making up for improper grip.

Please feel free to contact us anytime with any questions or comments. Remember – Always practice with a purpose.

 

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